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We get the story
What it's doing, when it started, how old the unit is. Half the diagnosis is knowing what changed.
What every common Panasonic H and F fault code means, what you can safely check, and when to call a tech. Sydney repairs since 1991.
Panasonic Error Codes (H and F Codes) Explained
Panasonic Fault Codes
Reading a Panasonic Code
Panasonic shows an H or F code. H codes are mostly system and electrical faults, F codes are sensors and the outdoor unit. Note it before restarting.
Panasonic flashing a code? The TIMER light on the indoor unit blinking is Panasonic telling you something is wrong. Here is how to read the actual code.
Point the remote at the unit and press and hold the CHECK button. On many Panasonic remotes you press it with the cover open, or hold it for about 5 seconds. The display starts cycling through codes, H and F numbers. Hold or step through until the unit gives a long beep and the TIMER light stops flashing. The code showing at that beep, like H11, H15 or F11, is your stored fault. Write it down before you restart anything.
Panasonic uses an H prefix for most communication, compressor and electrical faults, and an F prefix for sensors, the cycle and outdoor faults. Some codes clear with a restart or a filter clean. Others - low gas, a capacitor, a sensor or the compressor - need a licensed tech. The good news with Panasonic is that some of the scariest-looking codes are actually cheap fixes, like a $150 to $180 capacitor. Panasonic is our main install brand and we have repaired them since 1991. Code not here? Read it to us on (02) 9820 4500.
One rule first: a single code after a power flicker is often nothing - restart at the isolator for five minutes and see if it returns. A code that comes straight back is a real fault. Do not keep cycling a unit that throws the same code repeatedly - you can turn a small fault into a dead compressor.
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Most Common Codes
The Panasonic Codes We See Most
Top four. Fuller list below.
H11 - communication error
The indoor and outdoor units have stopped talking, usually an interconnect wiring fault. Safe check: restart at the isolator for 5 minutes. If it returns, the wiring needs testing - often the cheaper fix, $180 to $400.
H15 - compressor start fault
The compressor will not start properly. Most of the time it is a failed capacitor - a cheap, quick fix at $150 to $180 - sometimes the compressor itself. We test the capacitor first. Not a DIY job.
H16 - low current / low gas
Low current detection, which often means the system is low on gas from a leak. Cooling fades. Needs a licensed tech to find the leak and regas. Do not keep running it low.
F11 - 4-way valve fault
On reverse-cycle models, the valve that switches between heating and cooling is not working - usually shows as it cools but will not heat. Needs a tech to free or replace the valve, quoted after testing.
The Full Panasonic Code List
H codes - communication, fan and compressor
H11 - communication error. Indoor and outdoor not talking, usually wiring. Restart first; if it returns, $180 to $400.
H12 - capacity mismatch. Wrong indoor and outdoor pairing. A tech checks the unit matching.
H14 - intake air sensor. The room temp sensor, $250 to $300 fitted.
H15 - compressor sensor. The compressor temperature sensor. Tested, often tied to a start fault. Capacitor $150 to $180 if that is it.
H16 - low current. Often low gas. Leak find and regas, $200 to $350 for the top-up.
H19 - indoor fan motor locked. Fan jammed or motor failed, $300 to $500 fitted.
H21 - drain protection. The float switch has tripped, water in the tray. Clear the drain, $120 to $150.
H23 / H24 - indoor coil sensors. Heat exchanger thermistors, $250 to $300 fitted.
H27 / H28 - outdoor sensors. Outdoor air or coil thermistors, $250 to $300 fitted.
H30 - discharge sensor. The compressor discharge thermistor. Tested before replacing.
H33 - voltage mismatch. Wrong supply or wiring between units. Have the supply checked.
H97 - outdoor fan motor. The outdoor fan not running, $300 to $500 fitted.
H98 - indoor high pressure. A protection trip, usually airflow or a dirty filter. Wash filters first.
H99 - indoor coil freezing. The indoor coil is icing up, often low gas or poor airflow. Filters first, then gauges if it persists.
F codes - cycle, sensors and outdoor
F11 - 4-way valve. Cools but will not heat, or the reverse. Valve freed or replaced, quoted after testing.
F90 - power factor correction. An outdoor electrical fault. Tested before any part is replaced.
F91 - refrigeration cycle. Often low gas or a restriction. Needs gauges.
F93 - compressor rotation. The compressor not turning properly. Diagnosed before running again.
F95 - high pressure in cooling. Dirty condenser or an overcharge. Clean the outdoor unit first.
F96 - module overheat. The power module or compressor getting too hot. Cleaned and tested.
F97 - compressor too hot. Compressor temperature high, commonly low gas. Needs gauges.
F99 - outdoor overcurrent. The outdoor board picking up a current spike. Tested before replacing.
Common Factors
What's Actually Gone Wrong
Here's what we find when a unit's not cooling, roughly most common first, and what each one costs to sort. If the unit's frozen over or leaking water, that ties in with cooling too. We've got separate pages on ice on the unit and water leaks if that's what you're seeing.
Restart at the isolator
Turn off at the isolator by the outdoor unit, wait five minutes, switch back on. This clears one-off codes from power flickers, especially H11. If the code returns, it is a real fault.
Wash the filters
Pull the indoor filters, rinse under the tap, let them dry. Choked filters trigger airflow and overheat codes like F96 and reduce cooling. Safe to do yourself anytime.
Clear the outdoor unit
Make sure the outdoor unit can breathe – no leaves, garden growth or junk against it. A choked condenser causes high-pressure codes like F95. Clearing it is safe and free.
What you should NOT do yourself
Do not open the refrigerant circuit, add gas or pull apart the electricals or boards – that is licensed, ARCtick-certified work. And do not keep resetting a unit that throws the same code; you risk the compressor.
When to Call a Technician
Call a tech when the code returns after a restart and a filter and outdoor-unit clean, when it points to the compressor (H15, F93), gas (H16, F91), a sensor or the 4-way valve (F11), or any time the unit ices up, drips, will not heat or trips the breaker. The good news: H15 is usually a $150 to $180 capacitor. A diagnostic call is $250 plus GST and we quote before we touch anything. Panasonic is our main install brand so we carry the common parts.
Diagnosis Process
Panasonic Repairs, Done Properly
We read the code, test the capacitor and electricals, put gauges on for anything gas-related, then quote before we start - no guessing. Panasonic is the brand we install most, so we know the gear inside out. Since 1991, 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews. See our full Panasonic repairs page or call (02) 9820 4500.
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Gauges on, pressures read
Refrigerant pressures tell us straight away if it's a gas problem or something else.
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Electricals and capacitor tested
We check the capacitor, test the fan motors and go over the electricals for anything on the way out.
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Coils and filters checked
Covers come off so we can see the state of the coils and filters, not guess at them.
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Fixed quote before we fix
Once we know the fault, we quote the repair before we start. You decide. Most jobs get done same visit.
Real Jobs
Code Not Listed?
Panasonic uses different code sets across the CS, Inverter and ECOi ranges. Read us the exact H or F code on (02) 9820 4500 and we will tell you what it likely means and roughly what it costs before we come out.
Licensed and Local
NSW licence 273312C, ARCtick AU13058, $20M public liability, our own techs not subbies. Panasonic is our main install brand and we repair every brand. Family run since 1991.
FAQ's
Panasonic Error Codes - Common Questions
H11 is a communication error between the indoor and outdoor units, usually an interconnect wiring fault rather than a dead board. Restart at the isolator for five minutes; if it returns, a tech needs to test the wiring, $180 to $400.
H15 is a compressor start fault. Most of the time it is a failed capacitor – a $150 to $180 fix – and sometimes the compressor itself. We always test the capacitor and compressor windings before recommending anything bigger.
That is usually an F11, a 4-way valve fault – the valve that switches the system between cooling and heating is not working. It needs a tech to free or replace the valve. Sometimes it is simply low gas reducing heating capacity.
You can clear one-off codes with a restart at the isolator, and fix airflow codes by washing filters and clearing the outdoor unit. A code that keeps returning is a real fault for a licensed tech. Never reset repeatedly – it can damage the compressor.
A diagnostic call is $250 plus GST. Common fixes: capacitor $150 to $180, sensor $250 to $300, fan motor $300 to $500, gas top-up $200 to $350 once the leak is fixed, board $400 to $700. Quoted before any work.
Jay’s Air – Panasonic is our main install and repair brand. Licence 273312C, ARCtick AU13058, lifetime workmanship warranty on installs, 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews, since 1991. (02) 9820 4500.
If the unit’s under about 10 years and it’s a capacitor, a fan motor or gas, repair it every time. If it’s 12 years plus, running old R22 gas, and the compressor or board’s gone, a new system’s usually the smarter spend. We’ll give you the honest call, not the dearest one. If you’re weighing up a new system, our sizing guide tells you what you actually need.
Yeah, the lot. Daikin, Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Fujitsu, Actron, LG and the rest. Ducted and split, homes and businesses. We do split system repairs and ducted repairs right across Sydney.
Jay’s Air. Family run since 1991, our own blokes not subbies, fixed pricing and no surprises. Licensed (NSW 273312C), ARCtick certified (AU13058), 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews. Give us a bell on (02) 9820 4500 and we’ll get it sorted.