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We get the story
What it's doing, when it started, how old the unit is. Half the diagnosis is knowing what changed.

Reading a Fujitsu Fault
Fujitsu tells you what is wrong two ways: flashing lights on older units, and a numeric code on newer ones. Both translate to the same faults below.
Fujitsu blinking at you? There are two ways a Fujitsu shows a fault, and it depends on your unit.
Flashing lights. Most Fujitsu General wall splits have no number on the unit. The fault shows as a pattern on the indoor lights. The OPERATION light (green) and the TIMER light (orange) each flash a set number of times with a pause between. Count the OPERATION flashes, then count the TIMER flashes. That pair is the code. Watch it through twice to be sure, and write both numbers down.
Numbers on the remote. Units with a wired wall controller, or a wireless remote put into check mode, show a two-digit code like 11, 51 or 73. To bring it up on a wireless remote, point it at the unit and press and hold the buttons your model uses for the self-check (commonly the Energy Save and Zone or Master buttons together for a few seconds) until the code appears. Not sure which buttons? Do not force it. Just read us the flashing pattern instead.
Either way, get the exact code before you restart anything. The most common call we get is a Fujitsu with the green light flashing fast and the unit dead. Nine times out of ten that is the unit protecting itself after a power flicker, and a restart clears it. If it keeps coming back, there is a real fault underneath. We have repaired Fujitsu since 1991. Code not here, or just lights flashing and no idea what they mean? Read it to us on (02) 9820 4500.
One rule first: a rapidly flashing operation light with no other symptom usually means the unit has gone into self-protection. Restart it at the isolator, wait five minutes, switch back on. If it runs fine, it was a one-off. If the flashing returns, note the pattern - that is your fault code, and it is time for a tech.
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The Fujitsu Faults We See Most
Top four. Fuller list below.

Flashing green light, will not start
Self-protection mode after a power flicker or brief fault. Safe check: restart at the isolator for 5 minutes. If it clears, it was a one-off. If it keeps flashing, count the pattern and call a tech.
Code 11 - communication error
The indoor and outdoor units have stopped talking, usually an interconnect wiring fault. Safe check: restart at the isolator. If it returns, the wiring needs testing - $180 to $400.
Code 51 - indoor fan motor
The indoor fan is not running properly, often bearing wear on older units. Safe check: make sure nothing is jamming the fan and the filters are clean. If clear, the motor likely needs replacing - $300 to $500 fitted.
Weak cooling, lights normal
No code but poor cold air usually means choked filters, a dirty coil, or low gas from a leak. Safe check: wash the filters. Still weak? It needs gauges on it to check the gas - a tech job.
The Full Fujitsu Fault Code List
11 - communication error. Indoor and outdoor not talking, usually the interconnect wiring. Restart first; if it returns, $180 to $400 to test and repair.
12 - indoor PCB fault. The indoor control board, confirmed by testing before replacing, $400 to $700.
13 - indoor room sensor. Bad temperature readings, the unit cycles oddly. Sensor replacement $250 to $300.
14 - indoor coil sensor. The heat exchanger thermistor, same idea, $250 to $300 fitted.
51 - indoor fan motor. A worn or jammed fan, $300 to $500 fitted.
53 - drain. The condensate drain or pump on units that have one. Often a clean and reset, sometimes a pump replacement.
17 - power supply. An open phase or supply fault. Have the supply and connections checked.
57 - outdoor fan. The outdoor fan not spinning, $300 to $500 fitted.
61 - outdoor PCB fault. The outdoor board, confirmed by testing first, $400 to $700.
73 - outdoor coil sensor. The outdoor thermistor, $250 to $300 fitted.
97 - outdoor fan motor. The DC fan motor itself, $300 to $500 fitted.
21 / 22 - valve sensors. The 2-way or 3-way valve temperature sensors on the outdoor unit. Tested before replacing.
18 - current sensor (CT). A current reading fault on the outdoor board. Tested first.
62 / 63 - control or inverter board. The outdoor main or inverter PCB. Confirmed by testing before any part goes in.
65 - IPM (power module). The inverter power module has tripped. Needs proper diagnosis.
71 - discharge sensor. The compressor discharge thermistor reading out of range. Tested before replacing.
86 - pressure sensor. A pressure sensor fault, often tied to low gas or a blockage. Needs gauges.
91 / 93 - compressor faults. Discharge temperature or compressor protection. Often low gas behind it. Do not keep running it, it needs diagnosis.


What's Actually Gone Wrong
Here's what we find when a unit's not cooling, roughly most common first, and what each one costs to sort. If the unit's frozen over or leaking water, that ties in with cooling too. We've got separate pages on ice on the unit and water leaks if that's what you're seeing.
Turn the system off at the isolator by the outdoor unit, wait five minutes, switch it back on. This clears self-protection flashing and one-off codes from power flickers. If it returns, it is a real fault.
On older units, watch the operation and timer lights and count the flashes and pauses – that sequence is the fault code. Write it down. Telling us the pattern lets us often diagnose it before we arrive.
Rinse the indoor filters and make sure the outdoor unit can breathe – no leaves or junk against it. This fixes a lot of fan, pressure and weak-cooling faults and is completely safe to do yourself.
Do not open the refrigerant circuit, add gas or pull apart the electrical or control boards – that is licensed, ARCtick-certified work. And do not keep power-cycling a unit that throws the same fault; you risk the compressor.
When to Call a Technician
Call a tech when the flashing or code returns after a restart and a filter and outdoor-unit clean, when the fault points to the compressor (91, 93), pressure (95), a board (12, 61) or a sensor, or any time the unit is icing up, dripping or tripping the breaker. A diagnostic call is $250 plus GST and we quote the fix before we start. We carry common Fujitsu parts on the van so many of these are sorted same visit.


Fujitsu Repairs, Done Properly
We read the fault, test the wiring and electricals, put gauges on if it is gas-related, then quote before we start - no guessing, no parts-throwing. Fujitsu General is one of the brands we see most across Sydney. Since 1991, 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews. See our full Fujitsu repairs page or call (02) 9820 4500.
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We get the story
What it's doing, when it started, how old the unit is. Half the diagnosis is knowing what changed.
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Gauges on, pressures read
Refrigerant pressures tell us straight away if it's a gas problem or something else.
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Electricals and capacitor tested
We check the capacitor, test the fan motors and go over the electricals for anything on the way out.
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Coils and filters checked
Covers come off so we can see the state of the coils and filters, not guess at them.
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Fixed quote before we fix
Once we know the fault, we quote the repair before we start. You decide. Most jobs get done same visit.
Code or Flash Pattern Not Listed?
Fujitsu uses different codes and flash patterns across its ASTG, ARTG and older ranges. Read us the numeric code, or count the flashes of the operation and timer lights, on (02) 9820 4500 and we will tell you what it likely means and roughly what it costs before we come out.
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NSW licence 273312C, ARCtick AU13058, $20M public liability, our own techs not subbies. We repair every brand and install Panasonic, Daikin and Actron. Family run since 1991.


A fast-flashing green operation light usually means the unit has gone into self-protection after a power flicker or brief fault. Restart it at the isolator for five minutes. If the flashing returns, count the pattern – that is the fault code – and call a tech.
On newer units a numeric code shows on the display or remote. On older units, watch the operation and timer lights – the number of flashes and pauses is the code. Write down exactly what you see before restarting.
Code 11 is a serial communication error between the indoor and outdoor units, usually an interconnect wiring fault rather than a dead board. Restart at the isolator; if it returns, the wiring needs testing, $180 to $400.
You can clear self-protection flashing with a restart, and fix airflow faults by washing filters and clearing the outdoor unit. A code that keeps returning is a real fault for a licensed tech. Never keep power-cycling it – you can damage the compressor.
A diagnostic call is $250 plus GST. Common fixes: capacitor $150 to $180, sensor $250 to $300, fan motor $300 to $500, gas top-up $200 to $350 once the leak is repaired, board $400 to $700. Quoted before any work.
Jay’s Air repairs all Fujitsu General models across Sydney. Licence 273312C, ARCtick AU13058, lifetime workmanship warranty on installs, 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews, since 1991. (02) 9820 4500.
If the unit’s under about 10 years and it’s a capacitor, a fan motor or gas, repair it every time. If it’s 12 years plus, running old R22 gas, and the compressor or board’s gone, a new system’s usually the smarter spend. We’ll give you the honest call, not the dearest one. If you’re weighing up a new system, our sizing guide tells you what you actually need.
Yeah, the lot. Daikin, Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Fujitsu, Actron, LG and the rest. Ducted and split, homes and businesses. We do split system repairs and ducted repairs right across Sydney.
Jay’s Air. Family run since 1991, our own blokes not subbies, fixed pricing and no surprises. Licensed (NSW 273312C), ARCtick certified (AU13058), 4.8 stars from 280+ reviews. Give us a bell on (02) 9820 4500 and we’ll get it sorted.